Scarpetta

Scott Conant clearly knew what he was doing when he named his restaurant Scarpetta. Scarpetta by definition is part of the Italian phrase, "fare la scarpetta," which means to sop up the sauce from your plate with a piece of bread. While Scott does offer one of the best bread baskets in town (seriously Scott, stromboli bread? Eggplant caponata? You're killing me.), I really don't think the name is in homage to this. It could have something to do with the overall tone of the restaurant? Scarpetta in NYC is cavernous and sexy, opening up from a sleek narrow bar area to a large dimly lit dining room, which is capped with a beautiful glass ceiling that practically elevates your dining experience; but something tells me that's not it either. It definitely could be the fact that his menu is what you would expect of modern Italian cuisine, but then "unexpected and soulful" in flavor. Or that once you commence your meal here, you will find your unrelenting appetite attempt to savor every last drop, hence the name, "Scarpetta."

That most certainly could be it, however, I think this can be narrowed down even more, focusing our attention on one dish in particular, the Spaghetti. Yes, the ($24) Spaghetti. A dish as simple as pasta with tomato and basil sauce, but so complex and perfectly executed you feel almost ashamed at the fact that there is no way that you could ever achieve this at home. In any other Italian establishment of this stature, a waiter would think you naive and unrefined for placing such an order. However, when you request the Spaghetti at Scarpetta, the waiter practically bows down to you, walks away backward, and venerates your excellent taste....


After a couple cocktails and a whimsical primi piatti, I had the tuna 'scusi,' your spaghetti arrives in a beautiful little scoop. Don't even try asking for cheese, unless you want to get back handed by the staff. Chris tried this once and he practically got pummeled by the manager. No, this spaghetti is absolutely perfect on it's own. The trick, of course, is in the execution. Scott achieves this using the freshest of ingredients, a near al dente pasta, and by infusing the olive oil with basil, garlic, and chili. As Scott reveals in a Serious Eats interview, the oil is added to the sauce at the end and is part of what 'elevates' the dish, "The last thing you add will be the first thing you taste." Genius. A little more basil, cheese, and butter, and voila, a simply sophisticated (and perfectly creamy) plate of pasta.

In my eyes, Scott realized the name of his restaurant when he was developing this recipe. It's too bad that we didn't have any more 'scarpetta' once I was done. Oh well, I can always lick the bowl.

As Scott Conant likes to say, "Peace, Love, and Pasta."